A-Cold-Wall Men’s Collection Spring 2023

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We were in Paris, in a presentation space near the Atlas metro station, for this preface to a new geographical chapter in the journey of Samuel Ross and A-Cold-Wall. Ross, who before the pandemic had shown Italian collections in Milan, had kept news of the two presentations and two raves he had thrown here during fashion week (one as part of a collaboration with Converse) extremely close to the vest. “We’re loading slowly in Paris,” he said, then dropped that he planned to present A-Cold-Wall’s next collection here in a show format in January (read what you want) .

This lookbook is mostly about the shop-finished pieces that currently spark Ross’s creativity the most. Or as he put it: “I wanted to be much closer in making the clothes. And you can’t use these techniques if you’re trying to operate on a large scale, because they have to be done by local hands in the workshop. But it produces clothes of real beauty and I fell in love with that side of the job. The opening track was a great example of Ross’ new approach. Full of volume, tactical pockets, with detachable arms, cut in eco-leather and finished with a distressed Carrera leather emboss, this highly crafted coat has then been finished with a stenciled paint treatment.

Favorites for me included the last look jacket in rich hand-dyed and painted ripstop and a subtly distressed chore jacket produced in collaboration with Timberland (but not in this lookbook), as part of a six-piece co-project . What isn’t particularly obvious about the statically hung garments in the showroom or in these pictures is that most of them were developed with built-in wiring to allow the wearer to shape the garment according to its specifications. Ross observed, “focus it to allow for distortion without overcooking it.”

Alongside this impressive section of work was a higher volume manufattura-made collection that will be more widely available and at an accessible price. It included essential home parts such as a front tactical bag, chest rigs, zippers, and more. Less layered than the atelier pieces and therefore arguably more direct, this element of the season’s production featured lots of cool details like the A-shaped cutouts at the base of the collars on the shirts and the sleek piping on the knits. , a category I hadn’t seen here before. Welcome to ParisDr Ross.

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