A-Cold-Wall Men’s Collection Fall 2022

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“The real thinking behind this collection was not to overanalyze,” Samuel Ross said on a Zoom. In order to enter this area, Ross changed his usual design process from CAD sketches in favor of casting clay and plaster into models, which he then colored with inks. “I wanted to find a really complete expression that you can’t necessarily find with a computer or a pair of scissors.”

This hyperanalog starting point emerged from his exhibition of sculptural marble and steel furniture at Art Basel Miami last December, which he added “definitely extended my creative process.” Ross applies metaphorical illustrations of the consequences of social physics – the force of weight and energy exchanged between power centers and powerless territories – to clothing to create garments that help soften the wearer’s place in the world. rather than confirming it. Literal examples here included the shirred, arch-leg pants he said reflected the load-bearing elasticity of lead, the marble finish on tactically pragmatic outerwear, and the overdyed canvas twill pieces to which a linear pattern was applied by compressing photographs. from London, New York, Milan and Tokyo.

The guy wires adjacent to the apiary were, on a practical level, Ross’ answer to his frustration with daily mask-wearing, as well as a form of hard-hitting subterfuge and category escapism. As in other seasons, copper wire trims on the inside of the garments allowed the wearer to fine-tune their frame of fabric to their exact specifications. During our conversation, Ross said his thoughts when creating this collection stretched from classical civilization through the Renaissance to contemporary conservative government in the UK – a route with two peaks and one trough. By keeping these currents of thought in the background when he sculpted this collection, however, Ross fashioned a portfolio of clothing whose ideological inspiration seemed abstract at best. Its points of attraction, meanwhile, were obviously concrete.

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