A-COLD-WALL* Fall/Winter 2022 Collection, Lookbook, Collabs

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Samuel Ross’ A-COLD-WALL* production is often too fluid to be defined with easy descriptors, especially when compared to his street contemporaries.

Yet one word comes to mind when browsing the A-COLD-WALL* Fall/Winter 2022 collection: sculptural.

“We spend endless hours figuring out the visual language of each garment,” Ross told Highsnobiety recently, which is clear from the seasonal lookbook.

The looks don’t style the new clothes so much as they pile them on models, layering sweaters and jackets around the neck like scarves and wrapping silver and gold painted torsos with translucent mesh hoods.

Rugged patterns play on anoraks, splattered hoodies and disrupt distorted gilets cut from a crinkled Tyvek-like textile, all organic warmth eroded by cold industrial hues and synthetic fibers.

This sculptural approach, evident in outerwear and pleated pants, is nothing new for Ross — remember, he’s the founder of SR_Aa “design consultancy” interested in architecture and interior design.

It’s indicative of Ross’ overarching goal of disrupting the conventions of clothing design. Like his mentor, Virgil Abloh, Ross disrupts streetwear routines in favor of finding something unfamiliar.

But, humans being human, we tend to gravitate toward the familiar. Which is why I couldn’t help but look down to catch a glimpse of the shoes, both new and familiar (hello again, Dr Martens).

Ross recently teased some of the new internal designs on Instagram and it’s fun to see it really flex its design muscles, moving beyond the relatively recognizable Shard and into something fresher.

But there are also a few collaborative kicks worth watching, including his take on ROA’s hiking sneakers and a wild new Converse that appears to warp a Converse Basketball silhouette into a wild shin-high slip.

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